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The Fineness And Softness Of Vicuna Fiber

By Jayne Rutledge


Vicuna fiber is the rarest, most expensive natural fiber in the world. Vicunas look like their cousins, the llamas, but they are the smallest members of the camelid family. They live in the high, freezing altitudes of the Andes. These animals were considered sacred by the Incas and only members of royalty were allowed to wear the precious cloth woven from their fleece. This fleece is not only very soft and fine but it has remarkable insulating properties and resilience too.

While the Incas reigned, the vicunas roamed the Andes in large numbers. Unfortunately, subsequent civilizations, from the time of the Spanish conquistadors, slaughtered them for their precious fleece. By 1966 they were nearly extinct and drastic measures needed to be taken. Governments stepped in and thanks to conservation efforts, careful management and strict anti-poaching efforts by various parties, numbers have increased once again.

In 1994, three companies were selected to join a consortium formed by the Peruvian government. They had the right to process and export fabrics and finished products made from the fibers. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves where these animals are protected, bred and sheared. They are committed to keeping the quality and increasing the quantities available for export.

Cousins to alpacas and llamas, vicunas are the smallest member of the camelid family. Their coats are not only extremely soft and light but very warm too. The fleece is more like a down than either hair or wool and it is this downy covering on the back and the neck that is sheared.

There are two layers of fleece, with the outer layer consisting of long, silky fibers and the inner layer offering insulation. This inner layer consists of fibers densely packed together. Air filled pockets are created by small scales locking together. The coat colors vary from dark fawn to a wheat shade.

Traditional methods for processing these fibers have been handed down over centuries. The chacu, or traditional roundup ceremony established by the ancient Incas is still practiced today, although now it is strictly monitored. The ceremony involves the local population forming a circular human chain around the animals and slowly closing in on them, before taking them into small tents for shearing.

Another reason why these fibers are scarce is that an adult can only be sheared every two years. Added to this is the fact that one adult only provides about 120 grams, not enough to make even a scarf. In order to make a sweater, the fleece from about six animals is required.

The qualities of vicuna fiber make it highly desirable. It is not only extremely soft, fine and warm but also extremely resilient due to the conditions in which vicunas live. As soft as a cloud it conforms to the shape of the body, reacting to its movements. No wonder demand is growing worldwide as more and more individuals are becoming aware of its extraordinary qualities.




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