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The Wonders Of Vicuna Fiber

By Freida McCall


Vicuna fiber, sometimes known as golden fleece, is the rarest and most expensive in the world. It is renowned for its many qualities, in particular its fineness: measuring approximately twelve microns (one micron equals one millionth of a meter), it is probably the very finest in the world, even finer than cashmere, which measures about seventeen microns. It is also light, incredibly soft and known for its fantastic insulating properties, being far warmer than wool to wear.

This material comes from the fleece of animals called Vicunas, which are related to the better known alpacas and llamas. These golden or cinnamon colored animals are striking to look at, with big eyes, long necks and slim legs. Their shoulders usually measure around one hundred centimeters and they weight just over one hundred pounds. On the chests, these creatures have a large white patch made up of longer hairs.

Vicunas are found in mountainous alpine areas in South America, most extensively in the Peruvian Andes, but also in Chile, Bolivia and Argentina. Like their padded, cloven hooves, good eyesight, and their ability to run quickly and cover great distances, their coats are an adaptation that led to the breed's success. The mammal has a double layered fleece which helps them deal with the cold high-altitude conditions in which they live. The underneath layer is soft and dense and works as an insulator, and the outer layer is long and silky soft.

The Incas introduced a ritualistic way in which to herd and shear the animals, called a Chaccu. Every four years, when it was time for this event, the king ordered the people to play their instruments and wave decorative flags in order to drive the creatures into a group. The Vicunas were then caught, sheared and released, unharmed. The clothes produced were only worn by the royalty.

The price this material commanded, unfortunately led to hunters, in more recent times, killing the animals for their pelts. A conservation program was introduced in the sixties and seventies because the numbers had fallen so low. This was largely successful, and there are now almost two hundred thousand Vicunas in Peru. However, this is still less than before the hunting started.

These days, Peruvians still hold Chaccus in order to round up and shear the animals. The creatures are not hurt in this process and there is plenty of legislation in place to protect them. It is illegal to export Vicunas, but their fleece is now allowed to be sold outside South America. However, there is a strict protocol to follow, with exporters needing to adhere to guidelines drawn up by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

Once animals have been sheared, people sort the fleece and remove the coarsest hairs. Then the hair is washed in lukewarm water and left to dry naturally. This process is usually done manually, in the traditional manner. The material is then ready for spinning and weaving. It is usually left in its natural brown colors rather than being dyed.

These rare animals do not produce a huge amount of material per head. The fleece of one animal may not even be enough to make a scarf for an adult, and over twenty five fleeces may be needed for a coat. This adds to the rarity of Vicuna fiber, and the cost. Clothes made from this material are exquisite but also expensive.




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